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 > Just bought pup and have a few questions

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ams115

NC

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Joined: 09/25/2009

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Posted: 11/20/09 06:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks to the great info on this board, I made the leap and bought a 2004 Rockwood last weekend. Have a few questions:

1) tents have to be cleaned - kind of dirty (just like the entire camper - looks like they left it open b/c it looks like outside dirt vs. people dirt). Anyway, I don't think it is mildew and have read to use dish soap and water to clean. Is this correct, and any particular scrubbing brush that I should use/not use? If it is mildew, what should I use?

2) any suggestions re: how to clean mattresses? Call me squeamish, but I'm the 3rd owner and don't usually sleep on used mattresses. Are there covers and/or cheap source to buy new ones? They look to be the original, somewhat thin mattresses, although they are in good shape except for a stain or two.

3) I bought from an individual, but a camp store near me suggested putting in a transmission cooler, especially since I'm pulling w/a 2005 Honda minivan. Trailer is 2600 pounds, minivan is rated to 3500. We live in the south and will use it more in the summer. This seems like a no brainer.

4) any suggestions re: ongoing maintenance, things to watch out for and/or winterizing? It does freeze here (NC based), and I hope to use it 1-2 times in Dec. before it gets too cold. I'm guessing bleed the lines for water like a house - anything else?

Thanks for these and any other suggestions!

nny12972

NY

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Posted: 11/20/09 07:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use vinegar and water and a bristle brush to do the vinyl & awnings----many vinyl cleaners of all kinds work well---d-w liquid won't hurt, either-----alowing vinegar to "sit" awhile usually makes mildew easy to remove....but, follow up with a vinyl protectant and make sure it's dry before you store it---available at most auto and RV outlets...tranny cooler for sure.
Enjoy,
J

bondebond

The bluest spot in Kansas

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Posted: 11/20/09 09:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ams115 wrote:

Thanks to the great info on this board, I made the leap and bought a 2004 Rockwood last weekend. Have a few questions:

First, congratulations.
Quote:

1) tents have to be cleaned - kind of dirty (just like the entire camper - looks like they left it open b/c it looks like outside dirt vs. people dirt). Anyway, I don't think it is mildew and have read to use dish soap and water to clean. Is this correct, and any particular scrubbing brush that I should use/not use? If it is mildew, what should I use?
I use an Awning cleaner from the RV section of Walmart. Doesn't attack the material and is able to get off most crud, except for sap (even though it says it does...it doesn't). Rinse thoroughly, allow to completely dry before storing. I also grabbed an automobile brush from the RV section, that is attached to an extendable pole that connect to the garden hose. Twist the base to turn off the water, dip in cleaning solution, scrub, twist to turn water back on for rinsing
Quote:

2) any suggestions re: how to clean mattresses? Call me squeamish, but I'm the 3rd owner and don't usually sleep on used mattresses. Are there covers and/or cheap source to buy new ones? They look to be the original, somewhat thin mattresses, although they are in good shape except for a stain or two.

Believe it or not, pet stain sprays are great for getting rid of most any stain and other undesirable biologically-based polutants. The enzymes will break down most anything a person would get on the bedding, including food stains, often. I have used it on my kids mattresses for night-time accidents. Other than the annoying fragance odor, it does the trick. I would saturate the spots, especially, and blot them up. Then allow to air dry. Pull the mattresses out and run a vacuum over them.
To really do it up right, pull the covering off (should be a zipper), toss that in the washing machine (do not machine dry), and spray the remaining foam down, hand-vacuum with an attachment to draw out any dust, etc. I've done that as well. Warning: Pulling the foam out of the outer cover will lead to hours of frustration when trying to put the foam back INTO the cleaned cover. I just can't seem to seat it well enough inside that there isn't some corner wanting to pull up, or twist, or something. But...it's clean.
Quote:

3) I bought from an individual, but a camp store near me suggested putting in a transmission cooler, especially since I'm pulling w/a 2005 Honda minivan. Trailer is 2600 pounds, minivan is rated to 3500. We live in the south and will use it more in the summer. This seems like a no brainer.
Not necessarily. Mine weighs about the same, especially loaded up with gear. I've pulled over the mountains in Colorado, traversing the Continental Divide numerous times. I use the engine to slow me down when coming down a hill, which is when a transmission cooler is most useful. Engine braking puts strain on the engine and specifically the transmission, thus the need to keep it cool. I have not encountered any problems without a transmission cooler on a Ford Explorer (4.0L v6 - without tow package). However, if you tend to pull uphill/downhill in warmer climates, that might make me consider installing one. But in my opinion, I would say you don't need to go there. Others will say "Get one. It's cheap insurance". Replacing a transmission, when it fails, is neither fun nor cheap.
Quote:

4) any suggestions re: ongoing maintenance, things to watch out for and/or winterizing? It does freeze here (NC based), and I hope to use it 1-2 times in Dec. before it gets too cold. I'm guessing bleed the lines for water like a house - anything else?
Most PUPs are pretty straight forward for winterizing and maintenance. We freeze up here, but I don't do anything more than thoroughly blow out the water lines. Having some water in the fresh water tank is not a problem. The trouble is where water is in a small, confined space and has nowhere to go when it expands, except break whatever is holding it back: valves, faucets, water pumps. When I got my used PUP, the previous owner had never used the water system, but the dealer had during the walk-through. Hairline fractures at two elbows in the plumbing. I've replaced those, and opened every vavle, run the pump to empty it, etc. and have never had a problem with NOT using RV antifreeze. I don't want to have to mess with cleaning that out each year. $4 airhose adapter at Walmart. I use a bicycle pump to force the water out. I believe others use an air compressor, but that could get to be too much PSI, in my opinion, to be safe.
Other items:
-Inspect for rust yearly
-Repack wheel bearings
-Inspect brakes, electrical wiring
-Soggy spots in the flooring and other signs of water damage throughout
-Battery - that's a whole topic unto itself
-Inspecting the lift system and cables for fraying and damage
-Inspecting coupler for wear and tear - is it still tight enough to stay connected to the ball
-Sanitize the water system in the springtime
-Bunches more

Enjoy and let's see what else comes up.


Yum...nature is tasty.


skipnchar

Google Kansas USA

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Posted: 11/20/09 09:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We've always used anything that you would normally use to clean a convertible top. they usually contain some really good stain removers and the fabrics are very similar so it's unlikely to do any harm to the tent ends.

As for the mattress, I would never use one without a mattress cover, You can usually find one that either has a fold lock system or that zips up to encase the foam. Replacement usually isn't too hard but I'd be a little cautious about going much thicker as it may make it difficult to close the top without stripping the bed and that can be a pain.

Hope you have a great experience with the new trailer / skip


2004 F-250 SCREW Long Bed (new)
OR 2004 F-150 HD (85,000 towing miles)

Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer

We have enough YOUTH...how about a fountain of SMART


Guest

USA

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Posted: 11/20/09 02:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Read your Honda owner manual under "towing." You NEED a transmission fluid cooler and it should be installed in series with the existing cooler integrated in the radiator (IIRC, aux cooler first, THEN rad cooler). Odyssey transmissions must be treated right or they cook easily!

Also note that Honda recommends using premium gas when towing.

bondebond

The bluest spot in Kansas

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Posted: 11/20/09 02:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yep, page 305 of the 2005 Odyssey Owner's Manual says that a transmission fluid and power steering fluid cooler is required for towing. Not "recommended" but "required". According to the previous page, you also need to use a weight distribution hitch, as your PUP exceeds the limit for the non-WDH capacity of the Odyssey.

Beacher

Long Beach, CA

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Posted: 11/20/09 04:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ams115 wrote:

..
1) tents have to be cleaned - kind of dirty (just like the entire camper - looks like they left it open b/c it looks like outside dirt vs. people dirt). Anyway, I don't think it is mildew and have read to use dish soap and water to clean. Is this correct, and any particular scrubbing brush that I should use/not use? If it is mildew, what should I use?


Check your owners manual to see what it recommends. Dish soap should be fine. Then, don't forget to re-treat the fabric with waterproofing spray and the vinyl for UV resistance.

ams115 wrote:

2) any suggestions re: how to clean mattresses? Call me squeamish, but I'm the 3rd owner and don't usually sleep on used mattresses. Are there covers and/or cheap source to buy new ones? They look to be the original, somewhat thin mattresses, although they are in good shape except for a stain or two.


My favorite tool for cleaning mattresses is a carpet cleaner with a good hand attachment. It sprays down the cleaning/disinfecting agent and then is simultaneously vacuumed up. If you don't have one you can usually find inexpensive reconditioned models at Big Lots.

ams115 wrote:

3) I bought from an individual, but a camp store near me suggested putting in a transmission cooler, especially since I'm pulling w/a 2005 Honda minivan. Trailer is 2600 pounds, minivan is rated to 3500. We live in the south and will use it more in the summer. This seems like a no brainer.


More necessary, than just a suggestion. Unless.... you carefully plan all of you camping trips so that the trip, both going and coming back, is all downhill driving.

ams115 wrote:

4) any suggestions re: ongoing maintenance, things to watch out for and/or winterizing? It does freeze here (NC based), and I hope to use it 1-2 times in Dec. before it gets too cold. I'm guessing bleed the lines for water like a house - anything else?


Mainly to check their condition because you are now the third owner, repack the wheel bearings, and adjust the brakes. If you're going to camp in freezing weather, just empty the water tank and blow out the water lines with air. Take all drinking/washing water separately in suitable containers. If going into truly freezing weather -20F degrees only open or close your PopUp after heating the clear vinyl as it may crack.

ams115

NC

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Joined: 09/25/2009

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Posted: 11/23/09 07:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks, everyone, for your excellent advice. A few more Qs:

1) Is there such a thing as "natural" sealants? I'm trying to be green, or at least as green as one can be hauling a pup instead of a tent around.

2) Are there natural treatment options for the cassette potty vs. "the chemicals" I keep hearing about?

3) Does everyone actually use premium gas, as advised? I'm a bit afraid of the cost, but then I keep cars a long time so don't want to cut years off of my Honda's life simply because I'm short-sighted.

4) Any suggestions re: what type and less expensive pup cover? I have a circa 1930s garage that doesn't fit car or pup, so it will be out in the elements with trees all around it in the fall/spring/winter and baking in the sun during the summer.

5) What are the things that can go wrong w/the battery that sound so ominous?

6) Also, I should out myself...I'm a woman whose only experience driving something like this is Uhauls 20 years ago when I used to move regularly. Anything I should watch out for when driving, both flat interstates as well as curvy country roads in the mountains?

Thanks again. GREAT suggestions and help.

P.S. Here's a funny newbie story for your enjoyment: I asked the woman I bought it from if it had electric brakes. She said no, although I did think it road really well on the 3.5 hour return drive other than a few grinding noises (need to get the hitch adjusted). It was such a good deal that I decided the suck up the cost of brakes, espec. since my young daughter will be camping with me. I didn't know how to check if it did/didn't have 'em. Lo and behold, my local RV store told me my model DID come with brakes. They already have my loyalty, since they could have said they put them on and I wouldn't know the diff. Doh!

happybooker1

Magnolia Texas

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Posted: 11/23/09 08:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't be afraid to get out & CAMP!! I'm a single MATURE mom who camps with my now 12-YO son. We started out with a Pup & just last month we moved 'up' to a Hybrid TT. So now we're most likely RV'ing as opposed to camping, but we still love it!





nny12972

NY

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Posted: 11/24/09 06:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey ams, I'll give you the same suggestions I would to any "new guy!"

When I'm towing in the hills, I use mid-grade or premium gas...manual doesn't tell me to, but performance & mileage is better. I would not ignore what Honda says...particularly if your PUP weight is anywhere near max.

Do you know what it weighs empty? Do you know what it weighs loaded and ready to camp? Ask around for the location of scales....truck stops, local landfill/dump have them----a couple bucks---about $8 at the t-stops....know your weights....don't be intimidated----there are usually instructions posted---you can just ask the operator how to go about it, first, too...

Google and save "The 12 Volt Side of Life." The battery info is limited to primarily lead-acid, which I suspect you have...should help you clear up battery & electrical Qs.

Nothing in the way of "green" sealants I know of---doubt they would hold up to UV and the elements for long.

Taking care of your rig: appliances should all have stickers with mfg., model #, serial #....record that info....you can download manuals at no cost at bryantrv.com.....scroll through the long list.

Green potty treatments? YES. Wally-World, RV parts have 'it.

A cover? You know how to wrap birthday gifts, right?!!!! Make sure everything is clean and dry inside---might even want to remove the cushions and throw 'em in the spare room. Get a tarp and cover your PUP......suggest using rubber bungies to keep it tight. Keep it tight!
Good luck!
J

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