JJBIRISH
Butler, PA, USA
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Joined: 10/06/2002
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chances are the problem has been fixed since you found a problem to begin with...
I wish you the best of luck down the road...
Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet
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JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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Joined: 12/16/2004
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Hi Moss
By any chance did they give you as found readings on all 4 wheels before they did anything? This would be very helpful if they did to compare wheel readings before and after. You know the before was wearing tires. Also not have before is going to make trying to do something with Lippert that much more complex if you go that route.
I only saw after numbers in your pics for wheel position. And I could not tell which axle was which. That would help too in this case.
And I did not see the tow ball to the axle center numbers of before or as found?
One axle shows toe as 0.02 deg on one wheel and 0.21 deg on the other. Those numbers if I am understanding them correct are within tolerance for Dexter. They are tiny shade out for Alko.
The other axle shows -0.27 toe out and 0.45 toe in for the other. Not knowing what the axle locations are that could be an axle toe issue itself or the axle alignment or a little of both. Those numbers, again if I am understanding them right, do not fit in Alko’s or Dexters spec. And Alko and Dexter specs conflict with each other on what they told me.
OK so say that one axle is out. The problems come back to I or you have not been able to find anyone who can say by how much being over by what amount will create a wear issue and at what level. I’m sure your bushings have some wear even though they said they where OK. New bushings may help or hurt at this point.
Since there is no “adjuster” in your case other then positioning the hanger I can see how this would occur. If that one axle is an issue, well they can loosen up the U bolts and tweak a little pending what axle it is or cut the hanger back off. OR do a bend the axle tube align. Or nothing at all as it is too much to cut the hanger back off again.
If we knew where you where before they did anything, then you can maybe tell if you are 30, 60 or 90% better then you where before. You know what you had was an issue.
From my messed up axles and hangers, this much I can tell you from your numbers, the tires will wear better. My front axle was messed up worse then your worst one and I had to pull out the calipers to find the wear pattern but it was there.
Hope this helps
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we where camping!)
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mosseater
Dillsburg, PA
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Joined: 10/19/2007
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John,
After studying the paperwork, I too am a little confused. How can there be only one set of numbers if there are two axles???? I hope to find out more tomorrow when I have some more time to go over it with them. I know they didn't have to move anything very far, but if the axle seats have very little play and the bushing are "pretty good"(their words, not mine), then how did they move the front and rear hangers without moving the middle? The spring would have to either compress (flatten out) or rebound (arch up). Granted, I think we're dealing with very small movements and I don't have a feel for how much movement there is as-built, brand new. Only going by what has been posted here and what I've read elsewhere. Maybe I can get him to draw me an exaggerated picture on paper and 'splain it more better. I think they're hurting for work so maybe they'll have some extra time to spend to clear it up for me.
"It`s not important that you know all the answers, it`s only important to know where to get all the answers" Arone Kleamyck
"...An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." Col. Jeff Cooper
Sunset Creek 298 BH
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mosseater
Dillsburg, PA
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Joined: 10/19/2007
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Today I got the skinny on what happened with my trailer.
The set of as-built numbers in my paperwork are for the rear axle. When I questioned him about the other axle, he said he knows he got the numbers, just probably forgot to print it. I asked if he can retrieve it and he said his machine doesn't store (but the other one "over there" does). Can't get those numbers, gone forever, done deal. Oh, well.
He expained in detail about how he got what he got, and what changes he made. Starting with the rear axle first, he uses a jig mounted in the hitch socket and gets his measurements (perpendicular to ball)then uses wheel center fixtures to read camber and toe, then front axle, same thing. It sounds like the machine gives them a total descrepancy and tells them what changes to make to bring it in. I'll admit he sounds like he has a very good understanding about what is going on and could make the necessary adjustments without the machine. Basically, the rear axle was out of perp with the ball the most and the front was almost parallel with the rear. Keep in mind, "almost" in my case is 1/8" or so. He reminded me that moving the curbside rear hanger forward would also bring the other side back slightly because it doesn't pivot at the outside edge of the opposite tire, it pivots at the spring seat. So, bringing one side up about an 1/8" will take the other side goes back a little. Then moving the front axle back to parallel with the rear about the same amount got it very close to perfect.
Now, about that hanger  . It took asking the question twice to get the answer. First guy didn't know (or so he said). So, he lead me inside to asked the other guy who I talked to when I picked it up the first time. He did most of the work. Turns out they almost torched my trailer cutting the rear hanger off and rewelding it! My underbelly has quite a sag in it. So they were a little scared to try the front hanger. They opened the hole on the OEM hanger and welded the plates on the side with the hole offset to the rear about an 1/8" to get what they need. The original bolt was then too short so they opted for the larger thread one. The new one is the same diameter as the old one, just doesn't have the shoulder rebated as much and is longer to compensate for the extra width of the scabs they welded on. Slightly unorthodox, I'll have to admit. Wouldn't have been my first choice, but it should be ok. I would have pushed the underbelly up and out of the way and used cardboard or welding blankets to insulate the undercarriage from the heat and sparks. That's just me.
As suspected the center hanger was not moved. He confirmed my suspicions.
He talked about bending axles to align the trailer and he's never been a fan of that, so that was never considered.
All in all, it went pretty well and nobody got their shorts in a knot. I at least feel like I know what happened now and can relate the details to Lippert. If it tows better, and it appears to, and the tires don't wear too badly, I'll give the whole job about a C+. I feel that's pretty generous from a visual standpoint. I won't know about the tire wear till quite a while down the road.
If there's anything I forgot to mention, let me know. This time I took notes. Now, about that warranty claim....
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BurbMan
Long Island, NY
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Joined: 09/20/2001
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The underbelly on our Terry is like a plastic version of corrugated cardboard..it's a real bear to push out of place without dropping the whole panel. When I added shocks to the TT I opted to drill the frame and bolt the shock mounts on rather than weld them just for that reason.
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mosseater
Dillsburg, PA
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Joined: 10/19/2007
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Yeah, mine's the same stuff. I think it's industry-wide. I can sorta see their point, but there are ways around it. I have to get under there and patch it before the mice find it. It was pretty well sealed up before they melted it. I just hope I don't find more damage up in there, like burnt wires or something.
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