cyn61
Jersey Shore
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Joined: 06/07/2009
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WOW! You are making this look easy! I'm interested to see what your going to do next!
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Ripsnort
Lake Tapps, WA USA
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Joined: 07/15/2004
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Kids sports kept me active from 6:30am to 3:00pm today, but I managed to get the bottom board (main piece that sits on the cab) cut, fitted and sanded( fiberglass matting cut for the edges, 2" overlap on each edge that touches metal). Tomorrow I'll apply the West Epoxy to one side, and fiberglass the edges that attach to the metal frame. Then I need to start cleaning up the upper filon with ketone and sanding.
I'm ordering new filon (8' x 8') to meet up with existing filon at the top level of the old window. I'm opting to go without a 1/4" plywood front end, since I've already married a piece in flush with the framing.
I have a friend who's a manager in SC of a RV place. $2.99 sq. ft with wood backing. woot!
Life is short, Break the rules, Forgive quickly, Kiss slowly,Love truly,Laugh uncontrollably, And never regret anything that made you smile.
Rip's Garage!
1990 Fleetwood Jamboree 27 ft E350
Cabover Rebuild Project
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John H
Kansas City Mo.
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Joined: 04/11/2002
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Hello Ripsnort,
Many moons ago I had a discussion on that beautiful truck camper that you had and later sold. I was just to far away to come and buy it. Do you remember?
I am a woodworker by hobby & love, building furniture mostly, back ground in the sheetmetal construction trades. With that said I gave my lengthly 2 cent, 1/2 page advice, to Spectamac some where around page 11.
So If I may,,,,I would highly advise to take the though that no matter what you will do there will be some leakage. ANY opening, crack, & racking it will win. There for before covering up the frame keep in mind that frame is RAW wood, ROT pron stuff, big time !!!. On the market today there is a almost completely odor free, water braced & water clean up, brush able, wood sealer. Water base polyurethane. Or just any Polly. spray cans. Rip....after years of improvement it has turned out to be some good stuff !!!!
Also on the market for some 20 years or so there is a house rap (construction) called, DuPont's Tyveck. The purpose of this paper like materal, was/is to create a barrier between the outer most siding and the wood/insulated frame. This stuff is water proof, BUT... it actually breaths. Letting inside evaporation's moisture out ! You could create a inside water shield between the outside skin and the inside framing if you started high under the roofs membrane & ran it down to the lowest, past any horizontal drip point next to you wood.
I see that you are keeping those side windows...Pella the window manufacturing people sell a self healing waterproof membrane tape 4" wide 1/16" thick or so, to seal up new reinstalled window 2"x framing cracks. Why not remove those windows and seal the raw wood window framing top to bottom with this tape. Thus if water ever got past the caulking seal it could not reach the wood underneath ?? Since thoes windows are installed in a two side squeezing manner
Its just a though on some thing that you may not have been aware of, but at this point in your construction is poignant.
John H
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Ripsnort
Lake Tapps, WA USA
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Hi John! Yes I do remember you when I bought my vintage truck camper! Good to see your text again!
I absolutely plan to seal the wood between the skin and the outside wood. I was refering to those framing pieces when I stated I was not planning on sealing. Do you think I should treat those as well? They will have styrofoam insulation in between them on the inside (we use this rig for winter camping alot)
This morning I'm thinking "hmmm, why not just apply some epoxy with a brush to the tops of all the stringers?" I may do a small test area today and try just that.
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John H
Kansas City Mo.
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Top of the day to ya' Ripsnort,
If I remember your Holiday Rambler T.C. was originally you fathers. It was a beaut !!!!! The way they ran that front cap over the top. Like they refer to sailing crafts...."She shure has some good lines".
Years back I rebuilt the front bed cataliver, most of one side, part of the 4 sided top on a '88 Jayco, 91/2' pop-up truck camper, still own it to day. Rip, the prevailing question I keep in my mind then. Was do everything at this stage of a complete tear down & reconstruct, that the factory did not do, or could have done, or could have done better. If I had to do their job over, I by all means was going to everything in my power, not because I took short cuts, to save me, in reality just a LITTLE more time & effort. This time that camper was going to last.
Let me tell you something else that I did,,,,when I un-snapped that plastic trim & removed that chrome trim that covers the stapling together of two open seams at the corners. ( Top to sides, side to bottom, etc. ) I noticed that 60% of those screws were very bad rusted. Thus the very wood that held those screws solid were rotten right around where the screw penetrated. (blank, blank..#$^%@* ) so.....in replacing those screws, go stainless & seal the taper sided chrome metal base of the screw head, just before screwing them back in. Then run a GOOD caulking along the full width of that surface over all those installed screw heads before snapping back in that plastic cover piece. Maybe a little more time, but well,,, depending what kind of individual you are, you know that, but by gum, that water wont get in here because of my inaction or lack of attendance. After all,,,I was standing right there putting it back together, why not....!Dam it, Like I use to preach to my apprentice's, "Thats good enouf", just does not cut it. Never has, and after many many tomorrows it still won't then" !
* This post was
edited 09/27/09 09:48am by John H *
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Ripsnort
Lake Tapps, WA USA
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John, you write like my godfather, who's wit and humor was in every sentence (He was a writer for Sports Afield magazine many moons ago. 
Today I sealed those cross beams beneath the outter skin of plywood and sealed the plywood itself, with West epoxy system.
Cleaned up the upper filon and fiberglass taped the edges that were beat up. Mathced, traced and cut out the interior finish piece that will be glued to the bottom board on the top side.
Cleaned up the .100 thick filon leading cap that goes over the leading curved edge. Lots of elbow grease and ketone.
8 hours of work, but not much to show for it, just small details today. I'm in hold until the new filon (8 ft. by 8ft piece) arrives, which may be 2 weeks.
In the meantime, I'll sand the upper existing filon to prep for Awlgrip paint, as well as adhering it back down to the surface.
I didn't think I'd be this far ahead so soon. So far I'm into it for $562.00 and about 34 hours of work.
PIC:
West coast epoxy sealed front frame and outer plywood skin (which the filon will attach to:
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johnnytugs1
Jackson, N.J.
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Joined: 06/20/2009
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hello ripsnort, i am just about to get into the same thing. i have a 77 itasca that looks and smells pretty bad up fwd. where did you start and how did you figure where to stop. here's a picture of what mine looks like from the inside at this point. i plan on taking the interior overhead panel off and see what it looks like and i guess keep removing the overhead till it looks good hopefully not past the a.c. unit.
1977 Itasca Class "C" on a Chevy chassis
I work on the water......I play in the dirt
www.northeastbuggy.com
www.njohva.org
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Ripsnort
Lake Tapps, WA USA
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My rotting stopped at the top of the window frame, when I lifted the filon in that area, it was in good shape, thus my decision to stop there.
In your case, it might have leached into the roof.
I would use Memoryroad's blog to help you through this (see first post) as I'm pretty much following what he did.
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johnnytugs1
Jackson, N.J.
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ok i will do that, i got called back to work and go back to sea tomorrow. i started pulling down the over head then the heavens opened up an i found a bunch of places the water was coming thru.
then threw the tarp on it.
JT
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memoryroads
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Joined: 07/01/2009
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Hello Brian, Enjoying the North Rim of the Grand Canyon right now even though it's dropping to 29 degrees tonight, we will be toasty warm and DRY.
You seem to be doing well in your rebuild of your Cab-Over Class C! Keep it up!
Since we are traveling, I opted to modify my Blog to add a Labels column on the right side of my blog that will make it Easy for anyone to find CAB-OVER rebuild information or ROOF REBUILD information without getting lost in our latest travels.
.........so, for anyone interested,cut and paste any of these into your address bar and enter.
http://memoryroads.blogspot.com/search/label/cab over (12 posts)
http://memoryroads.blogspot.com/search/label/roof rebuild (9 posts)
http://memoryroads.blogspot.com/search/label/projects (now @ 24)
As you know, we are not done with the moldings around the cab over and will complete that in November upon our return to Florida.
Keep up the good work,
ron
* This post was
edited 10/01/09 08:49pm by memoryroads *
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