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 > Cold Weather Plumbing Issue

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Riever

Glendale, Arizona, USA

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Posted: 10/30/08 02:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We're recent full timers and plan to be Workampers. We've passed up a couple nice positions because the season ran into October at higher elevations which meant 50's during the day and mid 20's to low 30's at night. Our rig is an '05 Everest 323K and doesn't have heated holding tanks. My question is: Is there a relatively inexpensive way to address this issue? Any other comments/experiences would be welcome also. Thanks


Riever

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Posted: 10/30/08 03:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

problem solved.

Honestly if they are enclosed and depending on the area you are camping in i think they'd be ok till this time of year...

Remember you when the temp reaches 32 things don't just flash freeze. I have camped in my TT with tanks exposed and not heated in temps with night time lows in the mid 20s without problems.

Mile High

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Posted: 10/30/08 03:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Unless something was dramatically different back in 05, your Everest has the highest insulation and low temp spec of any in the Keystone lineup. You're belly is enclosed and heated by the furnace I believe, and all valving is within the belly. Were you actually looking for electric heaters in the tanks?


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Riever

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Posted: 10/31/08 03:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks very much for the information.

sirdrakejr

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Posted: 10/31/08 03:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved from 5th wheels to Workamping Forum for more info.
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sdf2

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Posted: 10/31/08 06:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Riever wrote:

We're recent full timers and plan to be Workampers. We've passed up a couple nice positions because the season ran into October at higher elevations which meant 50's during the day and mid 20's to low 30's at night. Our rig is an '05 Everest 323K and doesn't have heated holding tanks. My question is: Is there a relatively inexpensive way to address this issue? Any other comments/experiences would be welcome also. Thanks



On the times that I was in cold weather (cold + wind) I would take a trouble light. Like the one you would use to work on your car! With a 60w bulb in it I would put it in the compartment where the water hookup were. Or my trouble spot was the faucet where I had the hose conected. I would rap a carpet around it loosly and put the light inside.


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ontheroad101

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Posted: 11/02/08 06:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We camped for two months when the temp went below freezing and never had a problem. A few nights down to 20, and back above freezing during the day. A constant 20 degrees could be a problem. Two things you can do, fill your fresh water holding tank and disconnect the water hose and use you pump. The hose and connections outside are usually the problems. Or open your gray water holding tank valve and run the the water at a fast drip. 32 degrees won't freeze 50 gallons of water overnight. Also open your cabinet doors below your sinks to heat the pipes. During the day hook up the hose. Our basement and tanks are heated, so we never had a problem. I would be concerned with safety with putting a light in basement, just use caution. Hope this helps.


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motormouth2644

Pensacola Fl

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Posted: 11/14/08 05:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

we have a 07 Everest 343L and been in freezing weather for weeks in northern Mn,as long as u run your furnace about 74 or higher and u can get watter in it u should be fine !

Lou3NLyn1

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Posted: 11/14/08 11:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For a few nights at 20 degrees shouldn't be a problem. However, when we worked at a campground the first winter we workamped, the problem we found that was the worst was the sewer lines freezing solid after a week of not getting above freezing. The campground water lines and camper hoses were "heat traced" so they were good but the gray water would freeze just a little each time some ran down the sewer line until there was just a small opening, then it would freeze solid and make a real mess. We found that IF you were going to stay where it "gets cold and stays cold for a week or more" you needed to insulate and heat trace the sewer line also. No big deal a 20' heat tape and some insulation and you were good to go. We would put a layer of fiberglass insulation on the sewer hose first then the heat tape then more insulation, the cheap heat tape CAN get hot enough to melt the cheap sewer hoses.

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firedude

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Posted: 11/14/08 03:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mile High wrote:

Unless something was dramatically different back in 05, your Everest has the highest insulation and low temp spec of any in the Keystone lineup. You're belly is enclosed and heated by the furnace I believe, and all valving is within the belly. Were you actually looking for electric heaters in the tanks?


ditto on this. My 03 Challenger (almost a clone of the Everest)has an enclosed belly and the areas of the tanks are heated by the furnace. this area is ducted into the system. I can't believe the Everest is not which is supposed to be one step above the Challenger, especially one fairly new or any of them actually. I'd recheck this, but keep in mind if you are running some other form of interior heat and not your on board furnace your tanks are not being heated at that point.

Tony


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