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RE: EPDM rubber roof
How about from the source itself?
Dicor is one of two manufacturers of EPDM rubber roofs for RVs (Alpha Systems being the other).
Here is what Dicor has to say: http://www.dicor.com/Roofing.aspx.
Alpha Systems used to have care and maintenance information on their website (http://www.alphasystemsinc.com), but it's gone now.
You can get EPDM care products from various RV supply stores for renewing your roof.
For normal 2x per year care though, any mild non-petroleum or abrasive detergent will go a long way in preserving your roof.
Hope this helps.
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LLeopold
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08/24/10 02:43pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Anyone Know What This Is?
I got the messages about the photo, but wasn't able to log in to resize until now - sorry 'bout that! ;)
I added the keyword "width=400" after the link to the URL of the image and before the [/img] tag and the picture will be sized as seen above (height is automatically adjusted to keep the aspect ratio proper).
There is a full tutorial on editing and photo sizing which may be found here.
BTW: If this is at the end of your city water connection and that is a threaded end cap on the bottom, I would agree (and this is a guess) that it is a back flow preventer (given that the fresh water would flow up using this connection - you certainly don't want a down-flow when you disconnect.
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LLeopold
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08/19/10 05:34am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Curious?
Gentle reminder for new members:
From the Forum Rules which were agreed to upon registering:
"You are not allowed to post the same message in multiple forums without permission from one of the Open Roads Forum moderators."
Further replies can be made here.
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LLeopold
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08/16/10 02:14pm |
RV Pet Stop
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RE: Replacing the Rubber Roof
B.O. Plenty, your point is well taken. I talked to the CFO last night (my wife), and we came down to what it would take to fix the roof and where we would find the money (keep in mind, we're also prioritizing this expense with other things around the house that need money, it's more about cash flow and priorities rather than the actual overall cost).
So, I approached it from the perspective that $1900 as a chunk of money would be hard to swallow, but if I were to do the work myself, not only would we save on the labor costs, but we could buy the materials as we needed them rather than all up front which would spread the cost over the project time. That resonated with her, so I'm getting revved up on this new project.
With the weather actually getting nicer (we've had a very cool summer with morning drizzle, so I've had to cover the roof to keep the moisture out and uncover when the fog/drizzle burned off) I should have ideal outside conditions for the short term.
This weekend, I think I'll remove the front cap panel to see what underlying damage may be there. I'll take pictures and post them as I proceed.
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LLeopold
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08/13/10 11:00am |
Do It Yourself (DIY)
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RE: sad video
Moved from Beginning RVing...
Did a little research and found this article. Seems it may be going viral on the internet...
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LLeopold
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08/13/10 07:53am |
RV Pet Stop
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RE: Replacing the Rubber Roof
Update: I finally had my RV tech come out and examine the condition of the roof and provide an estimate so that I can make a decision as to have him do it or do it myself.
To answer the request to see what the current condition is, I took a couple of pictures and here they are. Click on the picture to get a full resolution view:
http://mysite.verizon.net/res1amdv/PIC-0013a.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/res1amdv/PIC-0011a.JPG
He recommended, essentially, what I mentioned in my previous post (replacing the damaged wood both on the roof and under the front cap with "real" plywood, laying down new EPDM on the exposed area, leaving the existing rubber roof in place - he said that in spite of the discoloration that it was in very good shape, removing all sealant from the entire roof - he noted that the sealant in other areas had also dried out and was starting to come loose, and reseal both the roof and front cap - he said that air had come in through small gaps in the front cap, again due to age, and air came up from underneath causing the roof to separate from the wood almost like blowing up a balloon until the rubber couldn't take the strain anymore and tore away, and reseal the entire roof with liquid EPDM). The deformity in the fiberglass cap would be minimized when it is attached to the new wood (the air that got underneath is what caused the deformation).
Bottom line parts and labor - $1900 and would take about a week to do with prep, repair, replace, and conditioning, including applying the liquid EPDM over the entire roof essentially making it new again. And this includes a one year warranty (I know he's good for this, I've trusted all my vehicles with him as soon as they're out of warranty).
Since I priced out the materials at around $600 (minimum) from looking at supply places on the net, the rest is the labor charge which, in my opinion, is fair.
So, in this case, I'm thinking to forgo the DIY in this instance and "go with the pro" primarily because of the price includes not only fixing the roof, but also removing/repairing/resealing the front cap, and includes the warranty.
Now we just need to come up with the money. ;)
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LLeopold
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08/11/10 11:39am |
Do It Yourself (DIY)
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RE: Torque wrench use on RV tires
Before each trip when I also check and correct the tire pressure. It's part of my checklist and only takes a few minutes to do both. Cheap insurance IMO.
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LLeopold
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08/06/10 02:31pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: What do you run down into the kitchen grey water tank?
Moved from Tent Camping...
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LLeopold
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08/04/10 11:28pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: protection
Ok. Saw that this thread has started to turn South and guess that it's now time before it gets too much farther South... I believe that the OP's question has now been fully answered, so....
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LLeopold
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08/03/10 05:26pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Replacing the Rubber Roof
I'll be doing an estimate of costs to present to the CFO (my wife) today, which will include renting space in a service bay. She already stated that if I plan to do this myself to also rent scaffolding to work from both sides rather than walk around on the roof (there's a little history about me falling off the roof of my stick house a couple of years ago during a re-shingling project and breaking an ankle).
As to the under-roofing, it's definitely particle board rather than luan or other plywood, so I would take hotspark's advice and, after replacing damaged wood, would also treat the remaining under-roofing with an additional sealant (I'm also that kind of DIY in that I try to do it right the first time and do a quality job).
I'm also planning to check with the guy who I do trust with my truck and FW to get an estimate from him on both replacing the roof entirely and what I'm thinking above; and keep folks posted on what I find out.
Thank you for providing suggestions to this point.
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LLeopold
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07/31/10 07:01am |
Do It Yourself (DIY)
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RE: protection
Thanks to all of you who are responding in keeping this thread civil.
It's great that a touchy subject like this can be discussed in such a manner and is a testament to members who do so.
The thread will not disappear (at least by me) when it is handled this way.
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LLeopold
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07/31/10 06:47am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Replacing the Rubber Roof
Yeah. I did see that yesterday as part of my research. Note that they're doing it inside, which is one of my "challenges" (though So. Cal. weather is not that bad); and no, the temperatures are actually quite mild, even for mid-summer (between 60 and 90 degrees with around 20-40% relative humidity).
I did find a possible alternative shortly after my post in YouTube, in terms of the Eternabond product (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYwxEX3SBK4) where it appears that they replaced only that portion of the rubber roof that needed replacement, then Eternabond the seams between the new and old roof.
I'm now thinking about doing the following:
1) Fix the underroof area where it needs to be fixed (replace the old particleboard that had water damage from years of slow exposure with "real" wood as recommended),
2) Thoroughly clean the remaining old rubber roof,
3) Obtain and install only enough EPDM roofing material and adhesive to replace that part of the roof that is now missing (since the area in question has no vents nor A/C openings, it'd be pretty straight-forward),
4) Obtain a 6"x9.5' roll (or whatever length is available) of Eternabond tape to seal the seam between the old and new rubber roof,
5) Obtain lap sealant and apply it over the Eternabond tape as an added measure of sealing and to reseal the moulding along the side edges and where the rubber roof meets the front cap (screwed down and sealed as before),
6) And perhaps, obtain and apply EPDM roof treatment to the entire roof (something like http://www.epdmcoatings.com/rv_roof_repair.html.
I'm thinking if I do these steps, I'd get about another 3-5 years from the existing roof minimum, since I've maintained the roof by cleaning twice a year anyway and would continue to do so.
If I do decide to do it (more like needing to convince my wife that I can and should do it), I'll take pictures and post them showing the steps taken.
Thoughts?
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LLeopold
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07/30/10 02:20pm |
Do It Yourself (DIY)
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Replacing the Rubber Roof
Okay. I'm usually one with answers and recommendations, but here's a chance for you to help out.
I'll start off with that I consider myself to be an avid DIY and like to do various home/RV improvement projects. That said, there are some things that I would not attempt. For example, I perform all routine maintenance on my pickup and fifth-wheel, (oil changes, bearing repacking, brake service, etc., but while I will flush and refill transmission fluid, I will not attempt to replace the transmission itself). I've installed my whole house soft water and filter system. I've built a patio cover on my home and done numerous interior upgrades in both the house and in the fifth-wheel.
So, last spring after the winter rains in So. Cal. I noticed some water on my night table inside my fifth wheel. After some investigation, I found that the sealant between the front cap and the rubber roof had dried out. The FW is 10.5 years old and has the original EPDM roof. I removed the old sealant and found that there was a gap in the roof not completely covering the corner and the manufacturer had applied a great deal of sealant in that area and it had dried out; hence the leak.
While examining the area, I noticed that the plywood (well, actually particle board) under-roof had some very slight water damage, but it looked like it would maintain integrity when the moulding was screwed back down over the rubber roof/patch and sealant applied.
So, I purchased a rubber roof repair kit and repaired the area and resealed the entire leading edge of the cap/roof. Looked good, I sprayed water onto the roof from a hose after everything dried and did not detect any leaks after that.
We recently took a 3700 mile trip through six Western states, and there was rain along the way. Again, no leaks. I felt really good about the repair.
On the second to last day of our trip; on the way back home, I noticed that the moulding had lifted up. Apparently air had somehow gotten through the sealant and pried up the molding holding the roof down. There were some very strong winds in Wyoming as well as our speed when traveling (70-80 mph in areas of Montana and Wyoming), so I can only imagine.
I checked and everything looked ok, but just to be sure, I added a couple of self-tapping screws and covered them with duct tape until I could add sealant.
On the last day, as we stopped for refueling (about 75 miles from home), I noticed a large flap of rubber roof (about a third of the overall length of the roof) hanging over the side of the FW. It had torn and come lose - the moulding was still in place, but air had come under the roof and eventually tore the roof. I climbed up and cut the hanging section off, then put some Gorilla tape along the leading edge of the rubber roof. No damage to the under-roof, other than what I already mentioned.
We got home safely and now have a large tarp covering the area of the underroof that is exposed.
So, the question is, given my level of experience, do I attempt to replace the rubber roof myself (well, with some family members or friends), or have it done professionally. Doing the research, it doesn't look like rocket science, but it is definitely a more than one person job and looks like it requires several days to get it done right (even more than a weekend).
I'm looking for someone who's done this to get a feeling of the level of difficulty in doing it.
Where I live does not get a lot of rain until winter, but there is a relatively constant sea breeze and I would be working outside so there is the potential for foreign material to float down onto the work area. From looking at various web sites on the procedure, it looks like it's recommended that this be done inside a large bay garage or barn which I do not have access.
Also there is the expense /vs./ my time.
I am tempted to try it if nothing else, for the experience and sense of accomplishment, but at the same time, I'd really like to have it done right and given the expense (looks to be about $550 for materials, and perhaps at least that amount in labor) that is also a factor.
So, for you DIY's out there, what would you do?
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LLeopold
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07/30/10 01:02pm |
Do It Yourself (DIY)
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RE: Backing 5th wheel into RV spot
Gentle reminder:
Multiple posts are not permitted in the Open Roads Forum without prior approval from the moderators or administration as per the Forum Rules.
Further replies can be made here.
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LLeopold
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07/25/10 03:56pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: After market warranties
I also found with my first RV that my extended warranty was more for peace of mind than in actual use for the 10 years that I've owned my fifth-wheel.
I'm pretty handy and am an avid DIY and found that most of the repairs are minor in nature and easily fixed. For major repairs/replacements, the best suggestion would be to have regular maintenance done on your RV, just as you would for your automobile or truck by a competent RV service center. Catching issues early before they become full-blown problems saves a lot of time and money later on.
Even if you don't do the maintenance yourself, take the time to find a reliable RV service center by asking other RVers for referrals. Do keep in mind that these typically have more business than they can handle, so don't wait until the week before you take that outing to get your RV serviced. Schedule an appointment upon your return as it will, more than likely, be a while before you head out again. It will save a lot of anguish later on.
Also, what I learned is by putting that one-time "premium" into a CD or other instrument would probably more than cover an appliance, or perhaps even servicing the engine or transmission, down the road in the unlikely event that it needs complete replacement. Would you purchase an after market warranty for your car or truck? The same consideration should be done.
But, if you feel that you need that level of peace of mind, then purchase the after market warranty, but be aware that it will not cover everything, nor things that wear out from normal wear and tear, which, as the RV gets older will be harder to prove that the item broke down rather than wore down.
Hope this helps.
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LLeopold
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07/20/10 08:00am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: side bunk latch??
Further replies may be made here.
Gentle reminder: Multiple posts are not permitted in the Open Roads Forum without prior approval from the moderators or administration as per the Forum Rules.
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LLeopold
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07/20/10 07:40am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Theft at campgrounds
There is enough of a redneck/pick up truck feel to camping that would lead most professional theives to the believe that post theft shotgun blast to the buttocks as a real possibility.
1st post and I got to use redneck, shotgun and buttock. I should win something.
Hmmmmm. Perhaps a PM from the moderator reminding the member about the Forum Rules? :R
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LLeopold
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07/19/10 04:28pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: RV Campground on I45
Moved from Beginning RVing...
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LLeopold
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07/18/10 01:12am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: A pattern of ignorance with newbies?
I'm late coming into this thread and moderating it because I'm currently out RVing myself through 6 Western states (California, Nevada, Utah, Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming) for the past couple of weeks and, as we all know, there is no WiFi service in some of the national parks (Yellowstone and Grand Teton NP) where I've been the past four days.
While the area is being monitored by the administration and my fellow moderators during the time that I am out of WiFi service, they don't necessarily receive the notifications.
Well, I was notified by a member during the time I was out of WiFi range. I am currently at an RV park with WiFi service and today I found that indeed, some of the posts in this thread bordered between dialog and trolling, so I scrutinized the thread in detail and removed those I've felt lent nothing to the thread.
The only reason that I'm letting the thread stand at all is that most of the posts are spot on as to why this section of the forum is here and what it's all about.
As many senior members are aware, I am very liberal when it comes to letting a thread run as opposed to some of my fellow moderators in the other sections sanitizing and closing threads that get too far off base.
Everyone should be reminded that Beginning RVing is, and should be, considered the "safe haven" in the Open Roads Forum for new RVers.
Let me make this crystal clear and I'll even bold-face it. I feel this strongly about it.
New members should not be afraid in any way to post, even what may appear to be the most mundane and naive questions to those who have experience.
If "experienced" members cannot resist "stirring the pot," in their answers, then I suggest to please refrain from posting in Beginning RVing.
We've all been there and, in spite of reading the various manuals, in spite of purchasing a number of RV books on how things work, and even a number of repair manuals, there are times that even I have trouble understanding a couple of the systems and have asked the questions myself here when I started RVing in 2001.
My questions, and subsequently collecting some of the frequently asked questions led to me being asked to be a moderator.
I still ask questions in other sections on specific topics as I know that there are those who know more than I; and I will also continue to share the knowledge and experience I've picked up over the years along with the other 200,000+ registered members of the Open Roads Forum.
This is why this forum exists and why it is the largest, and most successful, RV forum on the internet.
So please give the newbies, whether they are new to RVing or new to the forum, lots of leeway and slack.
They, and I, would appreciate your cooperation in this.
Hoping to see you on the open road.
Lou Leopold
Moderator, Beginning RVing, Open Roads Forum
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LLeopold
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07/18/10 12:48am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: 2010 Suburban towing 2010 34' Flagstaff to yellowstone
Further replies can be made here.
Gentle reminder: Multiple posts are not permitted in the Open Roads Forum without prior permission from the Moderators or Administration as per the Forum Rules that were agreed to during registration.
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LLeopold
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06/24/10 07:28am |
Beginning RVing
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