PattieAM
Maryland
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Joined: 08/03/2005
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Why not pick up a bedside commode, which can be placed above the toilet (and the leg height adjusted to a comfortable level), it has arms/handles for those of us with issues. This too is a temporary measure, can be easily removed, etc., when not needed. An inexpensive remedy.
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Fizz
Ottawa, Canada
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Joined: 07/28/2003
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I installed the Tethford Riser last week. Still can't believe what a difference a mere 2 1/2 inches does. It was a simple 15 min job.
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scubadanr
Clearwater FL
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Joined: 10/18/2009
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Thanks to all who responded. My father in law is a larger man and the reason I am moving the toilet is to accomodate him in both seat height and width. Did Fleetwood think that all of us have a 32" waist? I plan on reducing the size of the vanity to get the room and actually moving the toilet closer to the exterior wall. The toilet will end up directly over a frame member, so that's why I was going to build a 4" or 5" high box to mount the toilet on. (I can't make a straight drop into the tank at the new location even if I cut a new opening into the tank - it ends at the frame.) That box would hopefully give me the height to mount the toilet flange to a 45 down, connected to a second 45 by a very short piece of pipe, then threaded into the tank. Since the slope is 45 degrees, hopefully everything will slide OK. The box would cover the pipes and the existing hole in the floor. I am going to visit the plumbing supply store and try to piece this together before I start cutting things up. I will take pix and post if it works as I haven't found anything like this online.
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JJBIRISH
Butler, PA, USA
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Joined: 10/06/2002
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The 45* angles will cause absolutely no problems at all as far as function goes, and the length of the move at the 45* angle will determine how much height you will end up with…
Mine is set up the same way 2/45’s and a elevated floor… the seat on mine is right at 221/2 I think… that should be high enough to make getting up easier but just a little high for potty training the little ones that may need a small step…
Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet
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ArkieVet
Fulltimer
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Joined: 05/10/2007
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scubadanr, it looks like you've got a good, workable plan. Just be sure that, when you glue the 45's and pipe together, you don't leave any little gaps that might collect waste as it slides by.
Retired U.S. Army SFC ('67 - '88)
(Infantry, AG Corps)
2009 F350 Crew Cab Dually PSD Tow Boss
2009 Cameo F35SB3
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pkunk
Questa, NM
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Joined: 12/28/2007
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Look for a 'street' 45°, it will couple much closer than using a nipple.
1999 Coachman Mirada 34 ft.V10-F53 chassis
12ft.LR slide-2 gp31 AGM 12V @220AH 3 stage WFCO 55A converter upgrade
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RRBob
Mid-West
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Joined: 09/25/2005
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Plumbing codes require something like 1/4" drop per 10 ft of run.
I've read that this is because at that slope, the water and the solids travel at the same speed. If you increase the slope to much, the water travels faster and leaves the solids behind to eventually clog the pipe.
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mobeewan
Hampton, Va
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Joined: 01/03/2007
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Huh? What? Maybe in a house, but not an RV.
To the OP. 2 - 45's should be fine. They will also help prevent the occasional splash back from the tank. (Don't look down the hole too closely to double check the tank level when flushing )
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RRBob
Mid-West
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mobeewan wrote:Huh? What? Maybe in a house, but not an RV.
To the OP. 2 - 45's should be fine. They will also help prevent the occasional splash back from the tank. (Don't look down the hole too closely to double check the tank level when flushing )
Because it is an RV, the physical laws are different?
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scubadanr
Clearwater FL
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OK, here is what I have come up with after visiting the plumbing supply store. Those guys love a challenge. They have a stainless steel toilet flange with a built in 45 degree outlet; connecting to a pipe extender (basically a 3" pipe with a female glue on joint on one end); into a 45 degree street L; into a male adapter into the tank gives me the distance I need to move, but I was getting too high (seat about 23.5") They can't find a 45 with a female glue on one end and a threaded male on the other end, so they are going to cut the street L and cut the threaded male adapter and thermoweld the two into the piece that I need. Or they are going to try to cut threads into the street L. (unless someone out there can tell me where to find what the plumbing guys can't find) They are playing with it this afternoon if they get time. By building a 7" high box with the 14" toilet gives me a 21" seat height. If this works I will post some pics of the project. Thanks for the advice, everyone!
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