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 > Reese SC setup - Close enough?

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Yahooligan

Temecula, CA

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Posted: 11/20/09 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Howdy.

So, when we bought our TT a couple of weeks ago the dealer installed and set up the hitch. It didn't seem TOO far off but I thought it could be better so I started to do some measuring.

Unhitched rear TV height - 39.25"
Unhitched front TV height - 36.5"
Distance from bar to bar bracket pad surface was about 2.5" - Not enough.

The hitch head was tilted pretty much all the way up/forward by the dealer because we were having an issue getting the bar lever in place to lift the bars on. The bar brackets were also put on the lowest hole at the same time.

You can see the initial setup here.



I tilted the head back/down 3-4 notches on the washer which gave me about 4-4.5" from the bar to the bar bracket surface. Tightened everything up and had to jack the rear up a bit to get the bar lever in place and the bars lifted on, but I did get it. *whew*

So with everything hooked up and tongue jack retracted, the new heights are...

Rear TV height - 38.25"
Front TV height - 36"

With the original setup the rear would drop about 1.5" and the front stayed the same, so with a 1" drop in the rear and 0.5" drop in the front this seems about ideal for the TV.

Now the "close enough" part. When measuring the TT frame height, the front is about 0.5" higher than the rear. Level or slightly nose-down is preferred, but we haven't loaded the truck or TT with our gear yet so I expect a little more drop once loaded.

Is this half-inch nose-up going to be a big problem? If it's level when loaded I'm guessing that's pretty much ideal and I'll re-measure once we're all loaded.

Making an adjustment to bring the nose down is going to be interesting, the head is already at the lowest point on the shank. I think my only option would be to remove the Roadmaster Active Suspension, which did raise the rear of my truck 1-2". I installed before getting the trailer since I read it helped a bit with handling and now I'm thinking it may be overkill.

What say ye WD experts?


--
Hogan & Clan
2005 Nissan Titan CC SE 4x4
2010 Keystone Hideout 31BHSWE


Jerry9n

SE Michigan

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Posted: 11/20/09 02:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am by no means an expert on WDH having pulled a PUP for 30 years and just entered the world of WDH last year. I put on a Pro Series SC (without the tapered bars) but otherwise the same. First was, I could not get enough drop to get the nose level or close so I had to buy a different shank with more drop. I certainly think you are "close enough". Actually I really did not get too involved in the heights as much as I did the weights. When you get it loaded, I would run it across a scale to see what is actually happening. If you have access to a CAT scale near your it is pretty simple and quick.

I did three passes on the scale which cost $11 total. First was the TV with weights on the front and rear axle, next was the TV + trailer without the wdh bars which gives you the TV front and rear and the trailer, then again the whole thing with the load bars. Make a chart and add the weight ratings for the TV and trailer and compare. The idea is to balance the weights between the TV front and rear and the trailer to keep all within mfg.s specs. Height or level can theoretically be adjusted by the drop on the hitch and the hole the pads are in for the load bars.

Bottom line is you want to move weight to the front of the truck. Scales will tell you exactly what you have.


Jerry9n
2009 23' Cikira Escape EXP
2006 Ford Expedition
Reese Pro Series SC
Tekonsha Primus IQ
HTT Mods


mkirsch

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 11/20/09 02:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can't really make a determination until you're loaded up...

1/2" though? I say close enough... There could be 1/2" of variance in the surface of your driveway... Unless you're measuring with a surveyor's transit.

Yahooligan

Temecula, CA

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Posted: 11/20/09 03:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the words of encouragement and advice. I just wanted to make sure I'm not way off in my setup since we'll be leaving this afternoon on our first long (400-mile each way) trip with this TT and hitch. I do feel more confident in the effectiveness of the sway control after adjusting the head/bar, though. Definitely feels like there's sufficient weight on the bars and pads now, before it felt a little "light" when lifting them onto the pads compared with my previous experience with WD hitches that use chains.

I'll be sure to follow up with loaded numbers and a report on how the Reese SC does, should be interesting!

Yahooligan

Temecula, CA

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Posted: 11/22/09 09:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thought I'd hop on and give a quick update.

The Reese SC worked great! I have to say I'm very impressed with it, neither passing semis, head-on or otherwise, caused sway. I wasn't having to battle with the steering wheel, and we even came across some good 35mph gusts on I-10 through the Palm Springs area. Those were noticeable but nothing that was alarming or came anywhere near causing us to get pushed out of our lane.

I haven't had any experience with the Reese DC or Equal-i-zer hitches, but I definitely give the Reese SC two thumbs up, no regrets wishing I had gone with the DC or Equal-i-zer.

Have a great holiday!

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