delaware95
Akron, OH
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Joined: 01/29/2007
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I have a 24 foot Shasta Sprite by Coachman (a Catalina with a different name). There should be a sticker in one of the cabinets which gives the weight limitations for the Catalina. If your Catalina is on an E350 chassis the hitch weight limitation should be 3,500 lbs. The primary limitations are the hitch weight and the combined weight of the two vehicles. Probably your best approach would be to go to a truck stop or someplace that has certified scales and weigh each vehicle as normally loaded for a trip and then compare these weights to the limitations. I purchased a Roadmaster tow bar and Brake Buddy off eBay for fraction of the new cost. I used Harbor Freight magnetic tail lights to avoid cutting into the wiring on the toad. The only part I had to buy new is the base plate. If your Catalina is powered by a V10 you will have more than enough power. I tow a 2003 Tracker which weighs about 3300 lbs. loaded for a trip. Towing the Tracker does not seem to have any impact my gas mileage. I regularly get 9.5 to 10.5 MPG on the highway at 55 miles per hour with or without the Tracker.
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overdrive75
Whitmore Lake, MI
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Joined: 08/07/2003
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I tow a cherokee, behind our '87 27' Shasta class C on the E-350 chassis. I do not use supplemental brakes seems to work well and braking is more than acceptable. That being said I can see the benifits of supplemental braking, but still fell mine stops fine. Brother tows a wrangler behind is '87 27' Amarican, same chassis as mine, not supplemental brakes either. One thing to note we have C-6 transmissions and usually run at 60 MPH. So taking our foot out of the throttle we get some level of engine braking right away. Also both our jeeps are 4 wheel drive (alot of driveline drag) Also we run off road tires on the jeep, another level of drag.
All the being said we are doing a Western trip, Yellowstone and Glaciar next summer. We are both considering supplemental brakes, but also just taking is easy and downshifting on the downhills. My father has been RVing since the mid 70's and towing since late 80's. He has towed with a 24 midas C on a chevy chassis a chevette, an '82 S-10 and '88 escort GT behind a 30foot Montery Cobra on a P-30 and a '95 Sidekick behind a F-53 ford 32 footer none with supplemental brakes. He has been coast to coast and he says common sense all the way, don't tail gate look ahead and downshift on grades if needed.
So you do as you feel, but there are more people towing without supplemental brakes than you think.
1987 Shasta Roadmaster 27' E-350 with gas hog 460
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hohenwald48
Hohenwald, TN
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Joined: 07/27/2002
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I pull a Wrangler behind my 25' Dutchmen Class C on a E-350/V-10 with no problems. But I can sure tell it's there.
When I pull the same Wrangler behind my Monaco Knight DP I have to look in the BU camera to make sure it's still connected.
2001 Monaco Knight
2004 Dutchmen Dorado
1999 Jeep Wrangler
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willtravel2
texas
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Joined: 11/11/2009
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I appreciate all the help and info on this matter!
This forum is helping me a lot, so thanks to all 
I found the hitch tow rating at 3500lbs.
but, still can't find the MH weight...I looked in all the cabinets and doors,
No worries though, I'm going to go weigh it at a truck stop and find out exactly.
I also have a water heater problem that I'm working on at the moment.
My water heater is leaking at the Pressure/temp relief valve. I'm not sure if the unit is faulty or I'm just not filling the tank correctly? I attached a picture of where the water is coming out.
I drained the unit this morning and then when i go to refill it the water leaks out of the valve?
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willtravel2
texas
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Water Leak Picture
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA USA
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Willtravel2:
The relief valve handle is in the wrong position. Flip it down so the handle is perpendicular to the valve.
Bud
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow
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winnietrey
seattle
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Joined: 03/26/2005
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I have the same rig 2001, if memory serves weight is more like 10,500 or 10,800
I forget, look inside the closet door mine came with a sticker.
One thing for sure 6100 is way to light
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willtravel2
texas
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I flipped the valve handle down and tried it again and it still leaks.
When I turned on the water heater it started up fine and I could see the flame heating the tank. After about five minutes it starts to leak and bad. I know that these systems sometimes seep a little water but mine is leaking a lot.
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ron.dittmer
We Danced & Won, Check Out My Website
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Joined: 02/26/2007
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enblethen wrote:Willtravel2:
The relief valve handle is in the wrong position. Flip it down so the handle is perpendicular to the valve. Agreed on this one.
Sometimes those valves get corroded inside so it might still leak a little with the handle placed right. If so, just replace it. You need to research this, but you might be able to replace it with one sold in a local hardware store. They are cheap and easy to replace.
Oh I see your reply a couple of minuites before mine.
Before running out and buying one, try moving the valve open/close numerous times. Maybe the crud inside will flush away from the seal. Then again, it may leak worse. But it is leaking pretty bad anyway, so you have nothing to loose.
We Danced The Rumba.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA USA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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Replace the pressure releif valve.
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