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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  Modifications and Accessories

 > Big modification idea...."hard" bunk end.

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Jerry9n

SE Michigan

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Posted: 10/31/09 12:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would hesitate carving up that new of a trailer on a trial basis. I think you would be dollars ahead by going to Craigslist and looking for a buy/sell or a swap. Right now people are unloading year or two old trailers. If you can afford to hang on to yours and buy one now, then sell yours in the spring when the demand is high, I'm betting you would be ahead of the game both in materials and labor, not to mention having something that may or may not work and probably wouldn't be marketable in a couple of years. Just my opinion, though.


Jerry9n
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KDOG2010

New Jersey

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Posted: 10/31/09 06:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well keep in mind also, I would support it off the tongue. Also remember you must subtract weight of the existing bunk end that I would be removing. I actually don't think it would be that much heavier if at all.

Mike Up wrote:

To me, it sounds like a bad idea. Your bunk door likely doesn't have the structure integrity to hold all the additional weight besides the bouncing, and vibration from road surfaces. Add to the fact that this door is only a glued sandwiched laminated panel held on with only small gauge cables, it's a disaster in the making "IMO".

I'd sell it and buy a camper that has a hardwall expandable bed as a Jayco Jay Feather 213. Then again, if you could, I scrap the idea of a laminated built trailer all together and get a larger TT if it could be done.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

Have a good one.


Wes Tausend

Bismarck, ND

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Posted: 10/31/09 08:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

...

Maybe you can do both hardside and clothside at the same time.

If you do decide to build something sided out of wood or paneling, you may run into the cracking paint problem associated with painting bare wood grain. The painted grain often opens up and allows moisture to penetrate the surface.

So I would like to say how well covering plywood etc with painted cloth works to prevent this. I used paint-cloth once on the top of a take-down plywood picnic table, using old cotton bedsheets, and the one-shot common latex house paint stayed smooth for over 15 years. All I did was paint the surface and lay the cloth in this wet paint. Then by re-saturating the cloth with vast quantities of the same (left-over) paint, the entire mass stuck together when dry. I suppose one could use outdoor carpet glue underneath and just paint over the outer cloth too.

I understand that this principle was used to cover ship/boat decks, usually using painted canvas, and this economic method worked quite well. The process emulates, but predates, resin applied to light fiberglass cloth, now known as Filon on some of our campers. The crosshatch grain of cloth runs both directions, preventing cracks from opening like plain wood which runs only one way.

Wes

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KDOG2010

New Jersey

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Posted: 11/02/09 05:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well I haven't decided if I'm even going to do it yet. Even if I did, it wouldn't be till after winter sometime....

jlbmagna

Va

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Posted: 11/05/09 11:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Be sure to consider that going down a slight grade then leveling out might cause the forward end to interfere with the TV. I'm not a sy-ky-atrist and I don't know you at all, so irregardless you might still be a little nutz. Good luck, let us know how it works out.

mecreature

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 11/05/09 12:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So why are you wanting to do this?

Drippin

Dripping Springs, TX

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Posted: 11/06/09 07:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Make sure you can access and service the LP tanks that will be trapped under that open bunk end.

daniel-delarosa

what

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Posted: 11/11/09 08:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just make sure you post pictures!

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