Terryallan

NC

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DavidP wrote: mosseater wrote: Quote: Any time you help the engine breath. It's a good thing.
I would agree and that's the key. It's an interesting subject.
I don't think changing the intake and exhaust increases the amount of air into the engine, just makes it easier for the same amount of air to flow and do it's job (less restriction). An engine is basically an air pump. The throttle valve has a maximum open setting and the crank stroke and compression ratio remain constant. At a certain RPM, it is pumping a given CFM of air because the throttle valve, formerly the carburetor, allows a certain amount of air in to be compressed and expelled through the exhaust. Volumetric efficiency aside, I don't see much change in that, with the exception of what the relative atmospheric pressure changes are at intake and exhaust. How densly the air/fuel mixture is packed into the cylinder and burned determines how much specific output you get. Doesn't really change the AMOUNT of air in total. The thing to see by changing the intake and exhaust is what it does with that quantity of air and how effectively it makes it work to produce power. In fact, it could be said that a better intake and exhaust system would require LESS RPM to do the same job since it should produce more HP at the same engine speed, hence requiring less engine speed, and fewer CFM, to get the same work done (ie, pulling the trailer). The engine may produce higher manifold vacuum with the stock set up (restrictive), but in the end, it will basically pump the same amount of air at a given rotating speed. I believe I'm correct on this. Can anyone comment further with absolute certainty?
I’m not trained or certified in any automotive capacity. I’m a hobbyist that likes tinkering with my vehicles or any engine for that matter.
If you would like a comment with real world “absolute certainty”, gains are only determined on a dyno. In the real world its at the rear wheels on the road. This is where my results are based. My truck is now used only as a TV and I don’t make a habit of smoking the tires and have only done it a few times (not my bag) but it does bring a grin to my face. With VDC off, prior to the installation with 8k on the ODO I was able to get moderate break loose spinning from both rear wheels out of the hole and IMO good strong towing power in the mountains. After the installation of my K&N CAI and Borla Stainless Cat-Back exhaust I can spin the rear tires (Both tires are stock BFG AT KO’s) into cloud of smoke if I want to. The out of the hole throttle response and power delivery is in your face, instant on, and not comparable to stock. It truly let the beast out. In fact I just replaced my KO’s after 60K and gave em a nice spin prior to getting the new ones installed. Nothing like the sound of a big V8 making power! The power is night and day, especially in the mid to upper RPM range. But more important for a TV I have enjoyed much more noticeable power in the mountains where it counts. That’s about as “certain” as one can get.
Those that have done this modification with quality performance parts know what gains they received, and usually it is very substantial. Seems many in this thread knock the idea of a good aftermarket exhaust and intake with no first hand experience in seeing the difference it can make. A high-end CAI and Exhaust will give you on average 20-25 more HP....that is substantial. A quality Cat-Back will also give you a nice deep rich exhaust note. Not too loud but just right. I personally am not into loud but do like the sound of performance.
Now, Can “anyone comment further with absolute certainty”? 
I think we pretty much agree. Just word it different.
The guy that did my exhaust. told me. That he averages a 8HP gain on the Dyno with just the type of exhaust I got. From 2 1/2" pipe to 3", and the flow thru muffler. Of course. It will be more, when the intake is opened.
Also. I have also been cautioned, and have read. That if you open the exhaust too much. You can lose some torque, even while gaining HP.
Terry & Shay
Pioneer 23T6
04 F150, 5.4, Lariat SuperCab
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DavidP

Raleigh

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BurbMan wrote: OEM engineering is a balance between performance and longevity. Let's assume K&N increases power, and maybe they use them in race cars. The engine of a race car is torn down after every race, so they want power and plenty of it. Longevity is not an issue. In a street car, a more restrictive paper filter and a higher degree of filtration is required to protect the engine under a wide range of conditions to ensure longevity.
IF they could run the K&N's OEM and get the extra power WITHOUT sacrificng longevity, they would. They can't and you can't either. Most OEM set ups already have CAI from the factory, I know my '01 Suburban has one, it draws cold air from under the fenderwell, not hot air from under the hood.
Talk about exhaust systems, you need to be careful....most cat-backs will improve flow at high RPM and WOT, but reduced backpressure may reduce torque at lower RPMs, depending on the engine. More HP claims are almost always noted at high rpms and do not automatically equate to an increase in towing torque at lower rpms. Banks Engineering never produced an intake/exhaust kit for the GM 8.1 because they determined that there were no significant gains to be had over stock. That didn't stop K&N and Borla from posting +15HP claims for their set ups.
Not saying these are bad mods, just need to be aware that you are changing the "balance" of the tune engineered by the mfr.
A good example is the Ford 6.0L diesel...yes, it makes MUCH more power running with a chip, BUT tilting the balance so far towards power output really produced undesirable results on the longevity scale.
I ran K&N in my last truck for 120k and 75K currently on this one. The throttle bodies on both trucks are immaculate. Have family members in construction with 200-300k mikes on some vehicles all equipped with K&N box or K&N/Volant intakes. I guess when you say longevity 300k just does not cut it. Racing is a different animal all together, especially off road. You want to see an engine get wasted fast? Run a stock box filter set up in places a K&N or high performance intake is designed to be used.
I agree with what you said about a balance with low end torque. This is where Borla shines and can really tune an exhaust to an application. With my current set up I lost no noticable low end torque. In the mid to higher RPMS, like when shifting down in the mountains, it is night and day, way more HP and pulling power. It sounds very sweet as well.
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clev

San Marcos, Texas

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I can't believe you guys/gals are starting this K&N debate again! Give it a rest.
'99 E-350 HiTop Companion Van SD 7.3, ordered & rcvd Dec. '98: SuperChip, K&N air filters, 203* mod, Deraler tubed trannie pan, B&M trannie cooler, AirLift, Bilsteins, 4" DiamondEye turbo exhaust, U.S. Gear Underdrive, AutoMeter C2 3-gauge pillar mount.
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fla-gypsy

North Florida

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DavidP wrote: fla-gypsy wrote: Aftermarket filters and expensive exhaust systems do not give you ROI, or any measureable performance enhancement. IMO they are a worthless. The Reese Dual Cam system on the other gives you real performance for investment dollars.
And you base your statement on what? Dyno's don't lie, in fact they actually measure the "performance enhancement" very accurately. Real world test results counter your statement entirely.
I don't have time for silly debates, have another glass of Kool Aid.
09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10(The Black Pearl)
06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The Cracker Cabana)
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DavidP

Raleigh

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fla-gypsy wrote: DavidP wrote: fla-gypsy wrote: Aftermarket filters and expensive exhaust systems do not give you ROI, or any measureable performance enhancement. IMO they are a worthless. The Reese Dual Cam system on the other gives you real performance for investment dollars.
And you base your statement on what? Dyno's don't lie, in fact they actually measure the "performance enhancement" very accurately. Real world test results counter your statement entirely.
I don't have time for silly debates, have another glass of Kool Aid.
Ahhhhh, yes....the easy way out when you have no basis for a claim....I'm drinking Kool Aid. You made the statement I was just asking for your facts. Ease up Francis!
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BurbMan

Long Island, NY

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No debate...David P posting to share his good results, his mods work well for his rig. Not everyone will get the same results from these same mods, and not everyone should expect the same results from these mods, just like any other mods, there are too many variables in the mix.
Too many times on this board, folks take what amounts to a personal choice and try to boil it down to a binary choice of "good" or "bad". Life is not black and white, there are many shades of gray too....
Look at the K&N "issue", perfect example. Some folks like DavidP will use it, like it, and see good benefits from it. Based on his truck and how he uses it and where he drives it, he is seeing icreased power without detrimental effects. Some folks will see no difference between K&N and stock, some folks that drive in very dusty conditions all the time may see accelerated wear on their engines.
OEM designers will live with rated power levels to have a filter that will is sure to protect the engine under all conditions.
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fla-gypsy

North Florida

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DavidP wrote: fla-gypsy wrote: DavidP wrote: fla-gypsy wrote: Aftermarket filters and expensive exhaust systems do not give you ROI, or any measureable performance enhancement. IMO they are a worthless. The Reese Dual Cam system on the other gives you real performance for investment dollars.
And you base your statement on what? Dyno's don't lie, in fact they actually measure the "performance enhancement" very accurately. Real world test results counter your statement entirely.
I don't have time for silly debates, have another glass of Kool Aid.
Ahhhhh, yes....the easy way out when you have no basis for a claim....I'm drinking Kool Aid. You made the statement I was just asking for your facts. Ease up Francis!
My personal experience is good enough for me, your mileage may vary! I don't know anyone named Francis either.
* This post was
edited 10/28/09 04:22pm by fla-gypsy *
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nickelAF

Charleston, WV

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Francis didn't get it.
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opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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olddesertrider wrote: I recommend that everyone using a K&N filter add an Outerwears filter wrap to the K&N.
Outerwears filter wraps
I have no connection to the Outerwears company, just use their products
Outerwears filter wraps were developed many years ago due to the inefficient filtering of K&N filters used in offroad applications in the southwest deserts. Before Outerwears came about womens panty hose was cut and fitted to our K&Ns to stop dirt and sand particle intrusion into the intake tract. K&Ns do add power but suffer deficient filtering because of that.
All of my tow rigs for the last 20+ years use the stock paper filter(no filter wrap needed) and all of my offroad vehicles use oiled foam filters with filter wraps(no more sand damaged engines.)
olddesertrider
I've gotta second this. Years ago I had a sand buggy with K&N filters. I came back from the first trip and there was sand inside the filter coating the top of the carb. So I cleaned and oiled the filters again. I then put grease on the rubber sealing surfaces in case the sand was getting around the filter and reinstalled. Next trip I had sand inside the filter again. So I cleaned again and added the Outerwears. Never had a sand in the carb problem again.
Your mileage may vary.
You probably are not going to drive your tow vehicle in the same conditions that a desert vehicle will see.
The only time I would run a K&N is if I couldn't run a stock paper filter.
I love this time of year, people stop camping and the debates start.
1996 Suburban 4x4. 350 Vortec, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
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nickelAF

Charleston, WV

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Hummm, needs Outerwears to stop sand? What is stopping the small stuff? Pretty much worthless. Sounds as if you can not run a filter and equal a K&N. No gotta run the K&N to support the panty hose, dang.
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