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 > The true costs of running a generator?

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valhalla360

No paticular place.

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Posted: 10/31/09 01:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Getting back to the generator disscussion:

We have a Yamaha 2400.

Inverter based similar to the Honda 2000 but a bit bigger. Should be able to handle some A/C units that are slightly too large for the honda.
Purchase price: about $1000 a couple years ago.
Can't turn off the throttle (eco mode), but has a surge capacity of 3000 watts according to some sites (tested not rated).
Runs 8-10 hours normally. 5-7 with the A/C running. 1.5 gallon tank.
Oil changes and regular maintenance negligible (half quart of oil and a spark plug). Under $10/yr with 3 oil changes and a spark plug.

I suggest getting ahold of an amp meter and running a worst case senario while hooked up to shore power to see what you really need. The honda 2000 is a great little generator, but it won't do you any good if it won't run what you want to run.

Solar/Battery systems: On our boat we have a pair of 55watt pannels (110 total) feeding the "dreaded" 6 volt golfcart batteries. I could probably improve it a bit by redoing the wiring and connections, but we are lucky to get 24 amp-hours out of the system (I'm not adjusting them 3 times a day). Not worth messing with as it serves our light duty needs (lights, water pump, 12 volt fans). Beware of the buy it and forget it approach with a solar/battry system. The batteries require regular maintenance or they will die a quick death and more importantly the batteries do wear out. If you are talking about a 6 battery bank with a 5 year life span at say $100/battery, you need to add $2400 over that 20 year life to cover the cost of new batteries. It may still work out cheaper than a small generator depending on how you use it but it isn't a free lunch (The less you dry camp and the bigger your power consumption the more the generator makes financial sense.)

One issue with the Yamaha:
I haven't been able to find a pre-made gas can adapter so I can hook up a 5 gallon gas can thru the gas cap. They make them for the honda. I've seen suggestions on do it yourself, but would prefer some pretested before I mess up and do some damage.

Anyone know of someplace to get this?


Tammy Mike & the Bilge Rat (AKA: Diego)
Ford F250 7.2L
1997 Sunnybrook 27' 5er
1995 Gemini Sail Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and 5er


pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/31/09 02:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi valhalla,

So you run 300 hours per year approximately? At 8 hours average run time that makes about 58 gallons of gas? Costing 116.00 @ 2.00 per gallon? And perhaps $100.00 for purchase? Call the total per year with oil changes $226.00?

You still need batteries with a gasoline generator--and likely most folks don't charge to 100% while using a generator--the run times are just too extravagant. In any event batteries are going to cost whether you do solar or generator. So they are an ancillary expense.

valhalla360 wrote:

Getting back to the generator disscussion:

We have a Yamaha 2400.

Purchase price: about $1000 a couple years ago.
Can't turn off the throttle (eco mode), but has a surge capacity of 3000 watts according to some sites (tested not rated).
Runs 8-10 hours normally. 5-7 with the A/C running. 1.5 gallon tank.
Oil changes and regular maintenance negligible (half quart of oil and a spark plug). Under $10/yr with 3 oil changes and a spark plug.

Solar/Battery systems: On our boat we have a pair of 55watt pannels (110 total) feeding the "dreaded" 6 volt golfcart batteries. I could probably improve it a bit by redoing the wiring and connections, but we are lucky to get 24 amp-hours out of the system (I'm not adjusting them 3 times a day). Not worth messing with as it serves our light duty needs (lights, water pump, 12 volt fans). Beware of the buy it and forget it approach with a solar/battry system. The batteries require regular maintenance or they will die a quick death and more importantly the batteries do wear out. If you are talking about a 6 battery bank with a 5 year life span at say $100/battery, you need to add $2400 over that 20 year life to cover the cost of new batteries. It may still work out cheaper than a small generator depending on how you use it but it isn't a free lunch (The less you dry camp and the bigger your power consumption the more the generator makes financial sense.)



Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts solar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries 2500 watt inverter.

valhalla360

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Posted: 10/31/09 09:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You may want to get a fresh "battery" in you calculator (sorry, I couldn't resist). 58 gallons @ 8 hours/gal results in 464 hours of run time not 300.

I have been in the habit of doing the generator oil change when I do boat motor so it is easier to keep track of. I would say it is more like 150 hour run time on the generator. Not sure how it will work out with the 5er yet. Running your estimate using a more conservative $3/gal and 150 hours results in $66/year or about $1300 over a similar 20 year span.

Good point regarding both systems needing new batteries, except there still it a major cost difference. While I have a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries (one set that moves between boat and 5er) when they die, I plan to replace them with a single trolling battery. Assuming the same 5 year replacement cycle, that is 4 batteries vs 24 over 20 years. So instead of saving $2400, it is a $2000 savings.

This appears to favor the generator based on consumables. Of course over 20 years the generator may need repairs and other more expensive work. On the same token, things can go wrong with a solar/battery system (short circuits, vibrations damaging the electonic controls, an overhanging branch smashes a solar panel, etc.) Hard to put a number on these items as they are rare events that won't average out for a typical user.

A key point in the choice is how much you dry camp and how heavy is your power usage. We don't hesitate to use the generator for A/C and we also run it for TV, fans, electric skillet etc. I would say 4-10 hour/day and we are typically away from shore power for only 2-3 days at time. That combined with minimal consumption of 12 volt means the batteries get topped up most days.

Your pattern of usage may make the solar/battery approach make sense. For our use, a generator makes a more sense.

Snip:
So you run 300 hours per year approximately? At 8 hours average run time that makes about 58 gallons of gas? Costing 116.00 @ 2.00 per gallon? And perhaps $100.00 for purchase? Call the total per year with oil changes $226.00?

You still need batteries with a gasoline generator--and likely most folks don't charge to 100% while using a generator--the run times are just too extravagant. In any event batteries are going to cost whether you do solar or generator. So they are an ancillary expense.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/31/09 09:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi valhalla,

It was 8 hours run time on a full tank. Full tank was 1.5 gallons. That works out to 58 gallons for 300 hours.

valhalla360 wrote:

You may want to get a fresh "battery" in you calculator (sorry, I couldn't resist). 58 gallons @ 8 hours/gal results in 464 hours of run time not 300.

Good point regarding both systems needing new batteries, except there still it a major cost difference. While I have a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries (one set that moves between boat and 5er) when they die, I plan to replace them with a single trolling battery. Assuming the same 5 year replacement cycle, that is 4 batteries vs 24 over 20 years. So instead of saving $2400, it is a $2000 savings.

This appears to favor the generator based on consumables. Of course over 20 years the generator may need repairs and other more expensive work. On the same token, things can go wrong with a solar/battery system (short circuits, vibrations damaging the electonic controls, an overhanging branch smashes a solar panel, etc.) Hard to put a number on these items as they are rare events that won't average out for a typical user.

A key point in the choice is how much you dry camp and how heavy is your power usage. We don't hesitate to use the generator for A/C and we also run it for TV, fans, electric skillet etc. I would say 4-10 hour/day and we are typically away from shore power for only 2-3 days at time. That combined with minimal consumption of 12 volt means the batteries get topped up most days.

Your pattern of usage may make the solar/battery approach make sense. For our use, a generator makes a more sense.

Snip:
So you run 300 hours per year approximately? At 8 hours average run time that makes about 58 gallons of gas? Costing 116.00 @ 2.00 per gallon? And perhaps $100.00 for purchase? Call the total per year with oil changes $226.00?

You still need batteries with a gasoline generator--and likely most folks don't charge to 100% while using a generator--the run times are just too extravagant. In any event batteries are going to cost whether you do solar or generator. So they are an ancillary expense.


valhalla360

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Posted: 11/05/09 06:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tbone wrote:
Solar PV cost, 260w = $570
Charge controller= $200

Total PV cost for 20yrs= $770/20= $38.50/yr
----------------

You indicated your system will run the A/C for 4.5 hours. Two questions related to this:
1) Your profile indicates Arizona. Do you do any boondocking in hot conditions? If it's worth bothering with the A/C, we usually want more than 4.5 hours worth. Of course we have spent a lot of time on the east coast where it is humid and the temp doesn't drop as dramatically at night so the A/C often runs all night long.
2) Is this a standard roof mounted unit? Ours draws and 10 amps continous (tested with amp meter). My rough estimate is this would pull around 450 amp-hours out of a 12 volt battery bank. Previous posts implied you got around 100-150 amp hours per day. Does this mean you can only run the A/C for 4.5 hour every 3-5 days?

How big of an inverter do you have? I have a small 300 watt unit that was under $100. In looking at web sites, I'm seeing 2000 watt inverters with enough surge capacity to start an A/C are up around $2,000. This is a major cost factor to consider if you unit is not already equiped with such a large inverter.

If the A/C is non-standard, please provide the BTU output, amp draw (startup and continous) and cost so we can factor that into price comparison.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 11/05/09 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi valhalla,

My inverter is a Cobra 2550 (2500 watts) it is a modified sine wave inverter but is rated to run microwaves and motors. Cost was $200.00 nib on Ebay.

My air conditioner is listed at 13500 btu's and happens to draw 960 watts when running on low fan. If I were in one place I could only run the unit for about one hour per day on solar--but I tend to not stay still very long--and I have modified the charging system from the engine in my unit so that batteries may be recharged quickly, with the solar system providing the finishing charge.

I think you may have confused me with Tbone, which is why I answered you.



valhalla360 wrote:

Tbone wrote:
Solar PV cost, 260w = $570
Charge controller= $200

Total PV cost for 20yrs= $770/20= $38.50/yr
----------------

You indicated your system will run the A/C for 4.5 hours. Two questions related to this:
1) Your profile indicates Arizona. Do you do any boondocking in hot conditions? If it's worth bothering with the A/C, we usually want more than 4.5 hours worth. Of course we have spent a lot of time on the east coast where it is humid and the temp doesn't drop as dramatically at night so the A/C often runs all night long.
2) Is this a standard roof mounted unit? Ours draws and 10 amps continous (tested with amp meter). My rough estimate is this would pull around 450 amp-hours out of a 12 volt battery bank. Previous posts implied you got around 100-150 amp hours per day. Does this mean you can only run the A/C for 4.5 hour every 3-5 days?

How big of an inverter do you have? I have a small 300 watt unit that was under $100. In looking at web sites, I'm seeing 2000 watt inverters with enough surge capacity to start an A/C are up around $2,000. This is a major cost factor to consider if you unit is not already equiped with such a large inverter.

If the A/C is non-standard, please provide the BTU output, amp draw (startup and continous) and cost so we can factor that into price comparison.


* This post was edited 12/11/09 04:29pm by pianotuna *

Wayne Dohnal

Banks, OR.

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Posted: 11/05/09 09:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

it is a modified sine wave inverter but is rated to run microwaves and motors.
That's an interesting technical concept from the marketing department. I doubt that the microwave or motor knows if its MSW source is rated or not.


2009 Fleetwood Icon 24A
LinkPro battery monitor
EU2000i generator

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 11/05/09 09:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Wayne,

Cobra 2550

Call it marketing if you so wish. It is also in the printed owner's manual.

Wayne Dohnal wrote:

Quote:

it is a modified sine wave inverter but is rated to run microwaves and motors.
That's an interesting technical concept from the marketing department. I doubt that the microwave or motor knows if its MSW source is rated or not.


Wayne Dohnal

Banks, OR.

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Posted: 11/05/09 11:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pianotuna, I'm not trying at all to challenge what you've said. The deception of MSW is just one of my hot buttons. Even its name is a lie, as it's actually a modified square wave. The manufacturers have different ways of trying to put lipstick on the pig: Vector Maxx says "filtered MSW", TrippLite uses "PWM sine wave". I take the stand that Cobra's statement "This unit is ideal for microwave ovens" is a flat-out lie, as microwaves run at reduced cooking power when using MSW. The pulse width-to-height ratio varies among the manufacturers and some will run a microwave better than others, but they will all result in reduced cooking power as compared to a sine wave. I'm not even trying to demonize MSW inverters, just the dishonesty of trying to hide the fact that the power output is vastly different from a sine wave and sometimes it matters a lot. I'll jump off my soapbox now and apologize for an inverter rant in a generator thread.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Joined: 12/18/2004

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Posted: 11/05/09 11:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Wayne,

I agree that salesmen tell "tall tales" more often than not.

I apologize if I sounded abrupt. I guess the only *real* way to know about the wave form is to use a scope. There is some indication that the frequency is 17 hertz rather than 60 on my cobra--that's what the hertz reading is on my kill-o-watt unit. Voltage appears to be normal but I don't remember the exact figure. I've not tested for voltage under load--but will get a chance to do that tomorrow.

That said my microwave appears to work well on my Cobra unit--as does my air conditioner, fans, and heaters with fans.

Wayne Dohnal wrote:

Pianotuna, I'm not trying at all to challenge what you've said. The deception of MSW is just one of my hot buttons. Even its name is a lie, as it's actually a modified square wave. The manufacturers have different ways of trying to put lipstick on the pig: Vector Maxx says "filtered MSW", TrippLite uses "PWM sine wave". I take the stand that Cobra's statement "This unit is ideal for microwave ovens" is a flat-out lie, as microwaves run at reduced cooking power when using MSW. The pulse width-to-height ratio varies among the manufacturers and some will run a microwave better than others, but they will all result in reduced cooking power as compared to a sine wave. I'm not even trying to demonize MSW inverters, just the dishonesty of trying to hide the fact that the power output is vastly different from a sine wave and sometimes it matters a lot. I'll jump off my soapbox now and apologize for an inverter rant in a generator thread.


* This post was edited 11/05/09 11:39am by pianotuna *

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