ALnCORY
Idaho
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Joined: 10/06/2005
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Very impressive Ripsnort, looks really good, and should last you for years.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
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John H
Kansas City Mo.
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Joined: 04/11/2002
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Ripsnort, Hi I'm back, I drop over sometime to watch your progress, and to see if you are doing everything the right way. As I peer threw the sidewalk construction retaining wall peep hole, and as a lifetime, card showing, golden member of the, "Why Did They (He) Do It That Way", club. I have some prudent advice, for you to heed. Now here this, listen up.........As I stated early, that strip that covers the 90 degree corner covering strip is a bugger to seal. And in other talks on this subject in other forms down threw the years of re-built, as well as mine, it has been a proven source of leaks hidden and otherwise.. Did you know that Eternalbond now has a double sided sticky version of their tape. Do you believe that butyl rubber would have the self sealing screw penetration's, that Eternalbond has. As well as the aluminum to tape & the tape to the surface that it has. If a person was to take a good pair of scissors and cut a set width strip off of this tape. A little larger or the same size in width of the trim. Peel back one side foil as/and apply it to the raw 90 degree seam. Following a carefully penciled scribed guideline, and rubbing down sealing the tape, thus sealing the corner/s seams. Than peal the top half sheet of foil away, then lay the covering trim on this tape and then applying a screw at each end to hold it in place, rub down. Then apply a dab of caulking in each hole before setting those inter screws, and thus sealing the bugle head of the screws to the aluminum trim & on into the camper. Whata' think, huh,huh...???? John
John H
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Ripsnort
Lake Tapps, WA USA
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Joined: 07/15/2004
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Thats not a bad idea John, and one that I've given thought to. Here comes the "however" part:
However, I like the idea of having that aluminum strip screwed down in every (pre-drilled)hole to hold the filon edge down. I realize my fears of the edge coming up are most likely unfounded as I have 3 coats of contact cement on both surfaces, as well as 3M 5200 on the edges holding everything down.
What do you think of this: Double stick Eternabond tape on the seam, then the alum strip, screwed through the eternabond tape into the plywood beneath? I've ordered a new strip of screw cover molding to cover the screws.
I am thinking that the screw through the eternabond tape, as well as the screw cover molding might be enough. Worse comes to worse, I could dap some 3M 5200 sealant on each screw, after all I never plan on removing or rebuilding this cabover in my lifetime! so I'm not concerned about "removing" at a later date!
What say you?
* This post was
edited 10/27/09 03:28pm by Ripsnort *
Life is short, Break the rules, Forgive quickly, Kiss slowly,Love truly,Laugh uncontrollably, And never regret anything that made you smile.
Rip's Garage!
1990 Fleetwood Jamboree 27 ft E350
Cabover Rebuild Project
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johnbhicks
Lutz
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Joined: 07/25/2009
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Coat each screw with a dab of 5200, screw it down, then wipe off the excess. Just be sure you never want to remove it.
-or-
Bed the whole thing in marine bedding compound. The drawback is there might not be enough flex and the compound might split.
---
jbh
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John H
Kansas City Mo.
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Man, did I blow my description. Yeh, that was the same orientation that I had in mind, but failed to describe it. Your structural framing of both the top and side walls consist of a perimeter 2x's. Therefore, anytime that any of the outer most skin/s would meet in a corner, down there underneath lies a nice piece of wood (structure) to allow that trim screw to bit & hold into. Also the complete adverse affect...should any of these screws or their openings leak, there lies a straight path to your structures framing, & your Class C demise, & also to all of your efforts. 1. A GOOD, rep. GOOD seal (Tape) to assure no leaks on the perimiter edges of tape or trim, as well as the raw corner/s openings themselves seal. 2. Trim.. to cover the edge/s & tape, and hopefully to form a bond to said seal (Tape) below. 3. Stainless screws to bit into framing to assure trim stays. and also a seal, caulking, around screw penetrating openings--metal to metal does not assure a very good seal to screws tops. And then hopefully the first seal applied under the metal trim, would have enough gue to help seal around the screws threads below trim & on their way down, and on to the underside of the trim. Note as stated, any failure here is every bit as important as any hole in any of the flat surfaces anywhere else. ANY HOLE IN THAT SHEETING.
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jwwhite@aol
s florida
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Joined: 11/18/2008
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im going to have to do the front,soon how what holds on the tin on is it glue
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Ripsnort
Lake Tapps, WA USA
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John H wrote:Man, did I blow my description. Yeh, that was the same orientation that I had in mind, but failed to describe it. Your structural framing of both the top and side walls consist of a perimeter 2x's. Therefore, anytime that any of the outer most skin/s would meet in a corner, down there underneath lies a nice piece of wood (structure) to allow that trim screw to bit & hold into. Also the complete adverse affect...should any of these screws or their openings leak, there lies a straight path to your structures framing, & your Class C demise, & also to all of your efforts. 1. A GOOD, rep. GOOD seal (Tape) to assure no leaks on the perimiter edges of tape or trim, as well as the raw corner/s openings themselves seal. 2. Trim.. to cover the edge/s & tape, and hopefully to form a bond to said seal (Tape) below. 3. Stainless screws to bit into framing to assure trim stays. and also a seal, caulking, around screw penetrating openings--metal to metal does not assure a very good seal to screws tops. And then hopefully the first seal applied under the metal trim, would have enough gue to help seal around the screws threads below trim & on their way down, and on to the underside of the trim. Note as stated, any failure here is every bit as important as any hole in any of the flat surfaces anywhere else. ANY HOLE IN THAT SHEETING.
Ah, I understand now. You're talking about the sidewalls meeting the cabover. Those are steel frames. I have those small gaps filled with 3M 5200 adhesive. I'm going to eternabond tape those like memory roads did here. This is temporary like his tried and true method, as he put eternabond to the weather test, ranging from the Grand Canyon, to cold Colorado rockies and back home to Florida.
I need to get this rig road ready in less than two weeks, so the 3m 5200 sealant, and the eternabond tape should hold (as evidenced from memoryroads experience) until the spring when I plan to do some edge blending with fiberglass like this fellow did. He followed up and said after a year he had some minor stress cracks on this fiberglass job, but nothing major.
I am NOT going back to the alum trim on the 90 deg between wall and cabover roof. That was definately part of the problem.
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John H
Kansas City Mo.
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Ok, As you stated I see now also. In looking close at you first photo I thought that it had that trim with all of those screws that is used throwout the industry, and that you were going back with the same maybe a couple newer pieces.
You are right on (!!!!) the extreme rot in my '88 Jayco started under this phony trim that they used.
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Ripsnort
Lake Tapps, WA USA
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Joined: 07/15/2004
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John, Thanks for posting. I ALWAYS enjoy your feedback. It's folks like you that make this forum a wealth of information.
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Ripsnort
Lake Tapps, WA USA
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We made the final bend around the leading edge today.
First picture shows the propane heater at the far end and ceramic heater nearest, that warmed up the .06 filon to make it easier to conform and reduce chances of cracking.
Second picture shows the 2X4’s that held it underneath after sealing and screwing the edges (Stainless steel countersunk screws)
Third picture shows how we kept pressure on the leading edge. This was my dad’s idea and it worked great!
Just alittle sealing of the edges with 3M 5200 caulk and apply the eternabond tape to the edges, seams and we’re finished!
Hope to have a final picture this week-end. Depends how fast my double back eternabond tape ships.
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